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draught proofing sashes – to reduce air leakage by up to 80%.You can improve thermal performance of windows by: But there are many ways to improve the thermal performance of a window – and without negatively affecting its fabric or appearance. Traditional single glazing isn’t a good insulator. Other measures are often cheaper and easier, for example, insulating and draught proofing windows and doors, and insulating roofs and floors. Insulating the walls should be last on your list when trying to improve the energy efficiency of a traditional building. Damp problems and other defects can also stop insulation from performing at its best. cause the affected wall to perform less efficiently – heat is lost more rapidly through wet materialĪdding insulation without first fixing such problems could make the situation worse by trapping in more moisture.Gaps around doors, windows or floorboards let heat escape and cause draughts, affecting your comfort.īuilding defects that cause masonry to become wet or prevent moisture from escaping the building fabric will both: Heat loss and energy costs will both increase as a result. Loose or defective pointing, poorly maintained windows and damp masonry all reduce the thermal performance of the building fabric. So it’s best to make sure your building is in good shape before thinking about adding insulation or making other improvements. In fact, maintaining and repairing your building is probably the single most important thing you can do to improve its energy performance. Well cared for buildings are far more energy efficient. Ventilation is also necessary in traditional buildings, and a balance needs to be struck between air circulation and warmth. Whichever insulation option you choose, it mustn’t interfere with this process. Traditional stone buildings need to be able to absorb and release moisture to prevent decay of the building fabric. External wall insulation may be suitable for a harled or rendered building if the finish is failing.Where original lath and plaster wall linings are damaged or have been removed, there may be space to hold insulation in place with framing.Where a wall was originally plastered ‘on the hard’ (directly onto the masonry), you can apply insulation directly onto the plaster surface.If it’s not possible to insulate behind original lath and plaster walls, one option is to apply insulation onto the existing wall linings.Original or highly decorated internal walls are often best treated by blowing insulation behind the wall lining.If you decide to insulate your walls, there are a number of wall insulation options, some of which may be suitable for your property: Insulating the walls should be last on your list, as other measures are often cheaper and easier yet also effective in improving a building’s energy efficiency. Where to insulate first is worth some serious thought. So it’s best to make sure you’re maintaining your property well before thinking about adding insulation or making other improvements. The most energy-efficient option is the only way to go, even if it is the most expensive.Well cared for buildings are far more energy efficient. Research is the key to success, and you need to do your homework.ĭon’t skimp on price. Heat pump versus oil? Add natural gas to this question. Look for a link to the “Delaware Project.” Obviously, it’s difficult seeing behind the walls when this is done, but qualified and experienced insulation contractors are very good at it.Īt the website I found a great video series that demonstrates the technique. This has to be done very carefully, so the insulation is evenly distributed and doesn’t settle in one place. The method I’ve seen most often is blowing cellulose insulation into a hole punched into the plaster wall. But my efforts didn’t seem to make either house more energy-efficient. In the house that had an attic, I insulated the floor there.
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Two of the houses I have owned had plaster walls, and I tried to seal gaps where the walls met the floors and the roof, to reduce air intrusion. I don’t subscribe to this I’m just sharing. These walls were designed to breathe, meaning that they provide more than enough ventilation to prevent growth of mold. Some old-house experts have told me over the years that thick plaster walls and the wood lath underneath are thicker than most drywall. I assume that is not part of your overall plan, however. Many homeowners do this as part of remodeling projects, since the walls have to be ripped into anyway. It is possible to insulate lath and plaster walls.